How Often Should You Groom Your Dog?

From poodles to pugs, every coat has its own rhythm. Here’s a simple grooming schedule by coat type, straight from our salon floor.

There’s no single answer to how often a dog should be groomed — it depends almost entirely on coat type, lifestyle, and season. A working spaniel who swims every weekend has very different needs from a sofa-loving greyhound, and a fluffy doodle puppy plays by different rules than a short-haired senior beagle. But after twelve years and more than twelve thousand grooms, we can share the honest ranges we quote in the studio every day — and, just as importantly, explain why they matter.

It all starts with the coat

Before you think in weeks, look at what your dog is actually wearing. Most coats fall into one of five families, and each behaves completely differently between appointments:

  • Curly and wool coats — Poodles, Doodles, Bichons. The hair grows continuously, like ours, and it never stops. Shed hair doesn’t fall away; it stays trapped in the curl, where it quietly twists into mats. These coats need the most frequent professional care of all.

  • Double coats — Huskies, Shepherds, Corgis. A soft, dense undercoat handles insulation beneath a weatherproof top coat. The length stays put; the undercoat sheds in dramatic seasonal waves. These coats are never shaved — they’re maintained.

  • Silky coats — Yorkies, Spaniels, Setters. Fine, flowing hair that looks effortless in photos and tangles behind the ears, in the armpits, and under the legs the moment it gets long.

  • Wire coats — most Terriers and Schnauzers. A coarse, protective jacket that keeps its texture and rich colour best with regular hand-stripping rather than clipping.

  • Smooth coats — Beagles, Boxers, Frenchies. Short and low-fuss, but don’t be fooled: they still shed surprisingly hard, and nails, ears, and skin need routine care no matter the length.

A simple schedule by coat type

Use these ranges as a starting point, then adjust for swimming habits, allergies, and how much brushing happens at home:

  • Curly & wool: a full groom every 4–6 weeks, with a proper brush-through at home two or three times a week. Stretch it to eight weeks and you’re usually choosing a shorter haircut without realising it.

  • Double coats: a bath and blow-out every 8–12 weeks, plus a dedicated deshedding treatment at the spring and autumn coat changes.

  • Silky coats: every 6–8 weeks to keep feathering tidy and tangle-free — sooner if your dog wears a harness daily, which rubs exactly where silky coats knot.

  • Wire coats: hand-stripping every 8–10 weeks to preserve texture, or a clip every 6–8 if you prefer a softer, fluffier look and don’t show your dog.

  • Smooth coats: a bath and tidy every 8–12 weeks, with nails checked monthly — short-haired dogs wear their nails down less than you’d think.

Adjust for the season

Coats live on a calendar. In spring and autumn, double-coated dogs “blow” their undercoat over three to six weeks, and one well-timed deshedding appointment in that window saves months of loose fur at home. Winter brings mud, road grit, and damp coats that mat faster than dry ones — the undercarriage and paws need extra attention. And in summer, resist the urge to shave for heat: a well-maintained coat insulates against warmth too, and we can thin and tidy instead, which cools the dog without sacrificing the coat’s protection.

Puppies, seniors, and everything in between

Age changes the rhythm. Puppies should visit early and often — short, easy sessions every 4–6 weeks from around 12–16 weeks old — not because the coat needs much, but because the habit is being built. The soft puppy coat gives way to the adult coat around six to nine months, and a puppy who already enjoys the process sails through that change; one who’s never been handled tends to arrive matted and worried at exactly the wrong moment.

Seniors move in the other direction: appointments stay just as regular but get gentler and sometimes shorter. Older joints don’t love long stands, skin gets thinner, and lumps and bumps need careful navigation. Tell your groomer about arthritis or heart conditions — a good salon adapts the session around them rather than pushing through.

Why regularity beats intensity

The most common heartbreak we see isn’t a bad haircut — it’s a good dog who waited too long. Once a curly coat mats down to the skin, dematting becomes painful and unfair, and the kind option is usually a short shave-down and a fresh start, no matter how much anyone wants to save the length. Regular appointments are what keep length possible.

Routine visits are also quiet health checks. A groomer’s hands cover every inch of your dog every few weeks, so we’re often the first to notice a new lump, a sore ear, a cracked nail, a flea passenger, or skin that needs a vet’s eyes. Owners are regularly surprised by how much a grooming table reveals that a cuddle on the sofa never will. That early warning is worth as much as the haircut.

The real cost of waiting too long

Stretching appointments rarely saves money. Matting takes careful, slow work to resolve, so most salons — ours included — charge for the extra time; a badly matted coat can add half an hour or more. Worse, tight mats pull on skin with every step, trap moisture against it, and can hide sores you can’t see. If a coat has crossed that line, the humane fix is short, and then a regular schedule so it never happens again. Consistent 6-week visits almost always cost less per year than rescue missions.

Between appointments: your five-minute routine

A few minutes of brushing two or three times a week keeps tangles from becoming mats, and turns grooming into a bonding ritual rather than a battle. Always brush before a bath — water tightens existing tangles like a knot pulled wet — and work in layers down to the skin rather than skating over the surface, which polishes the top while the undercoat felts quietly beneath.

You only need three tools: a slicker brush for the body, a metal comb to check your work — if the comb glides root to tip, you’re genuinely tangle-free — and a detangling spray for the fiddly bits behind ears and under harness straps. Ask your groomer to show you the right slicker pressure on your own dog; the wrong tool or a heavy hand can scratch skin you can’t see.

Signs it’s time right now

  • You can’t slide a comb from root to tip without snagging.

  • Nails click on hard floors.

  • That doggy smell returns within days of a bath.

  • Eyes or paws are starting to disappear under hair.

  • Your dog leaves a visible layer of fur wherever they nap.

  • Scratching has increased but there are no fleas in sight — trapped undercoat itches.

When in doubt, ask

Every coat — and every temperament — is a little different, and the honest answer for your dog might sit between the ranges above. If you’re not sure where yours fits, drop by for a free five-minute meet & greet. We’ll assess the coat honestly, suggest a rhythm that works for your dog and your budget, and put it in writing — with no pressure to book on the spot.

Put the tips into practice.

A calm studio, gentle hands, and one dog at a time — see the difference for yourself.

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